Tutto Bene Ristorante
Mid Level, Southgate
Melbourne
03 9696 3334

On the same day I heard the sad culinary news that a fine, new restaurant called Seagrass had closed for Easter, but had failed to emulate a Christ-like resurrection on Easter Monday, I re-discovered a great restaurant still flourishing in the same Melbourne wining and dining complex.

In fact, we had to walk past the sad, shuttered and shattered dreams of a great seafood place that deserved to flourish to get to Tutto Bene.

Such are the pains and perils in the current Global Economic Crisis where the road to Hell is paved with good utensils.

For Tutto Bene, the road to continuing success is consistently good, authentic, inspired, Italian food coupled with one of the best locations in Melbourne, a great atmosphere and good staff. Sounds simple really.

The location is a dream, especially if you get a balcony table. You are right on the south bank of the Yarra and, with Earth Hour an even dimmer memory than the lights were on that wankiest of nights, the city skyline winks and glitters in the night sky.

We found ourselves at Tutto Benne as the first outing of our weekly foodie gang: the Family Friday Fang Club. We dine out every Friday night but often, as creatures of habit, visit family favourites. Now, on the first Friday of every month, somebody has to nominate a new place they have heard about or read about. Hence Tutto Benne. According to the scuttlebutt it had the best and most varied risotto dishes in town. Somebody had even nick-named it a ‘rissotteria’.  A pretty apt description. I counted fifteen different rissotto dishes on a massive menu.  There are seafood risottos, veal, prosciutto, duck, crab and vegetarian.

When I say they have special risotto dishes I am talking about special risotto dishes – plates with central wells that at first glance make the servings look meagre.

My pal (the Pater-in-Law) ordered a wondrous-sounding tastebud tickler: ‘Gorgonzola dolce con pera arrosto e miele di Castagne’. It was described  as ‘young and creamy gorgonzola with roasted pear drizzled with chestnut honey’ When it arrived it looked, at first glance, like a taster. A couple of slivers of pear on a shallow smear of creamy, cheesy rice.

We hadn’t counted on the ‘food well’. It was almost too much for one person.

Mrs. Nosebag had the salmon with mascarpone and a hint of lemon. Gave it the thumbs up. And I had the ‘Granchio con pomodoro e peperoncino’ – Blue Swimmer crab with tomato and chilli and  the ‘ peperoncino’ gave it a real welcome zing.

Apart from the risotto dishes they’ve got a massive menu of other stuff from  braised bay goat to Wagyu beef,  Berkshire port and roast duck. But if it is risotto  you want this is the place in Melbourne to get it. And the ample portions range from $22 to $26.

Surprisingly, it wasn’t the risotto that impressed me most. I’d go back just for a meal of some of their ‘assaggini’ – small, tasty, inventive, appetisers. My favourite was an under-used restaurant commodity. Fresh figs. At Tutto Bene they fill them with bocconcini, wrap them in prosciutto and oven-bake them. At $3.50 each, I’ll have half a dozen for a main course next time.

Also try the stuffed, crumbed and fried olives.

Tutto Bene?  Great value. Great place.  Sorry, and goodbye,  Seagrass.

April 26, 2009