FENIX
680
Victoria St
Richmond,
Melbourne
PH: 03 9427 8500
This is an extraordinary place.
And an extraordinary bunch of people.
It sits at the best end of Richmond (virtually
in Hawthorn) with lots of glass and terraces right on the banks
of the Yarra. Not hard to see why it is one of my friend’s
favourite nosheries.
They give you a report card after your meal.
It says: “We, as a team, meet every
day. We discuss the comments you’ve made, the good, the
bad, the ugly. If you we can deal with it ourselves we will.
If we can’t, we will forward the card
to Ray and Gary. I know they will do what they can.
If you have a minute, please do ask to speak
to one of the team members right now.”
How’s that for up front and honest?
And they give you a “directors’
profile”:
“Raymond Capaldi and Gary Mehigan have
35 years vast experience in the finest hotels and restaurants
in the world. Gleneagles Scotland, The Connaught, The Dorchester
in London, British Embassy - Moscow, Park Lane Hong Kong, Hotel
Sofitel to name a few. Between them they have gained extensive
experience in all areas of the industry ranging from catering
and event management, bistros, brasseries and bars. Through professional
association and a growing common vision for a "back to basics"
approach to the food and hospitality industry they have pooled
their resources and expertise together to form Fenix.”
And they have truly put their money where your
mouth is. It is certainly, genuinely, one of the best restaurants
in Australia. And I paid. The location is superb. The food is
stunning. Go there and just live off the entrees. Let them select
them. Feed you. Fawn on you. Why not?
The clue is in the “palette cleanser”.
Don’t know where they got the spelling. Surely it is “palate”.
Unless you are an artist with a board full of paint. But they
call it liquid nitrogen.
“Parfait of green tea, lime, vodka, poached
in liquid nitrogen cleanser to clean the palate. When you brush
your teeth toothpaste leaves fats on your tongue. This sensational
twist to a cleanser revitalises your taste buds to prepare you
for your dining experience”.
It certainly does, Ollie.
This place has awesome food. Try the pork laksa.
Caramelised pork belly in may-vin (which they describe as a “cream
vinaigrette”).
I actually drooled just reading their menu.
And the dishes live up to the hype.
Try any of these:
“Seared gold band snapper, kalamata olive
oil, spring roll oyster and red wine vinaigrette”.
“Olive oil poached barramundi , gratin
of dried scallops, lemon brioche and chilled nasturtium soup”.
Or “baked loin of Ascot lamb, new season
figs, Madjool dates with braised fennel and pickled raisins”.
Hold the front page. This is dining heaven.
The way they treat pork is as good as it gets.
I know it sounds pompous but their raison d’etre
makes sense and they live up to it.
"Our vision is to become an industry leader
renowned for excellence and commitment to quality. We have set
about designing a product that will be used as a blue print or
first step in establishing a new force in the Melbourne food industry,
seizing a unique opportunity to capitalise on several areas of
the food sector struggling to maintain their identity and market
share.
Fenix is much more than just a restaurant -
it's a whole concept, encompassing everything to do with food.
"We want Fenix to be versatile. A place where people can
enjoy a casual meal at all times of the day as well as indulge
in other food-related activities, such as cooking classes, appearances
by overseas chefs, or a bit of live music.”
Well, it sang for me. And then I went to listen
to Cher.