TAXI
Transport Hotel
Federation Square
Melbourne CDB VIC
Ph: 03 9654 8808
www.transporthotel.com.au

 

The gauntlet we had to run to get to the Taxi dining room the first time was pretty off-putting. I almost felt like calling myself a taxi and getting out of there.

But, finally penetrating the loud ground floor pub and Oktoberfest-style tables groaning with beer and spirits, was worth it.

Taxi turned out to be a mixture of an oasis and an Aladdin’s Cave of  food sensations – to mangle some imagines. I have been there several times recently.

I’ll admit I was first lured there when a doctor friend told me that among their treasures was a stunning treatment of Wagyu beef. That was enough. Save me a seat.  And I don’t say that lightly because Melbourne’s hottest new restaurant can have a booking list two months long especially at weekends.

This is not so much a place where East meets West. It’s where East marries West.  From the east is sushi chef Ikuei Arakane and from the west executive chef Michael Lambie.  Their dishes and tastes and sights weave together. To call it ‘mix and match’ would be an insult.

There’s a hot lemongrass broth with water chestnut dumplings  and sushi tasting plates from which you choose  three or five pieces from kingfish, tuna, salmon, scallops, crab, octopus or prawns.

I have mentioned in another review that this is the place for the best tempura I have ever eaten.  Crisp tofu and seasonal vegetables with a Japanese spiced tomato dipping sauce. The coating (it’s too fine to insult it by calling it ‘batter’) is almost translucent.

You know a menu is good when there are heaps of things among the entrees that you would love to try but you’re ‘saving up’ for the main course.

For a main Mrs. Nosebag had the vegetarian tasting plate and loved its presentation and variety of tastes. Not just a couple of veges banged on a plate.

I was saving up for the Wagyu beef.  Its succulent taste no longer surprises me because I have had it several times since first tasting it on a cruise on The World.  But it never disappoints. You really could cut it with the wrong side of the knife.

What did surprise me was the price. And I am not joking. It was a big piece of beef with one quarter left in one piece and the rest sliced and resting.  It cost $47.50.  Now, I have seen such a dish listed at $120 for 250g in Melbourne restaurants. In Sydney, you’ll pay $50 for an ordinary piece of meat and then come the $8-$9 add-ons for salads and potatoes.

Taxi can be expensive by some Melbourne standards or moderate. It’s certainly value and ambience and service for your money. The mains are in the high $30s.  Entrees over $20.

Most of our bill (apart from the Wagyu) went in alcohol from a great international wine list.  The non-virginal looking Virgin Mary was $6.50 and a bottle of Murdock 200l Coonawarra cab sauv was $80.  

As I have said this is a restaurant in an extraordinary setting that seems to have everything. The skyline, the Yarra, the oasis-feel in the midst of the increasingly popular Fed Square and great food.

Throughout the meal they have some small palate teasers like a small cup of Peking Duck consommé. And if you don’t want Wagyu for a main course they have  an entrée of small slices of raw Wagyu beef on a great salad ‘nest’ of daikon radish and Nashi pear with a Japanese sauce. That is a taste sensation.

For all those reasons I’d grab me a cab and head for Taxi even if they didn’t serve Wagyu beef. Went there again on Saturday.

November 13, 2006