THE BRASSERIE
Crown Casino, Melbourne
www.thebrasserieatcrown.com.au

It is always a bit hard writing about the plethora of restaurants in the Crown complex and along the banks of the Yarra. Some are owned by Crown and the space is leased out. Some are not.

 

That leasing shackle can sometimes affect even the most popular, up-market restaurants. This time I am talking about Cecconi’s – one of Melbourne’s classiest restaurants with a great menu, great wines and impeccable service.

 

There have been rumblings in foodie circles that Cecconi’s may be closing down. That Crown was refusing to renew the lease. Maria Bortolotto, whose family runs the restaurant, has confirmed it. They’ll be applying to renew the lease – which expires in September – but chances are not good.

 

There is a strong rumour of a change in Crown policy. They want big names to run their restaurants. The hottest name being bandied about is the peripatetic Neil Perry from Sydney.

 

There are other changes going on. The original Waterfront has been gutted along with Café Greco next door both owned by the Zapelli family. They will come back bigger and better than before.

 

My favourite eatery in the Crown complex is still Number 8. I have reviewed it before. They have great value two-course lunch specials at less than $40 and you get the same dishes as other people order off their huge menu. And you can still buy a bottle of “ baby Grange” – Penfolds Bin 407 for sixty bucks. When vastly inferior wines sell for fifty.

 

For a long time my favourite Japanese restaurant was KoKo’s inside Crown. Loved the authenticity and the rock pond with real floating lilies and a view of the river from the huge third floor window.

 

I loved the teppanyaki and cooking your own prawns and slivers of meat on slabs of hot rock.

 

But then I married a vegetarian – or a fishatarian?—and she pointed out how little choice there was for her. Many dishes were cooked in, or prepared with, chicken stock. And with teppanyaki  they constantly clean the metal grill  but the meat juices and fishy juices run together. To many people that’s half the taste. To a vegetarian it is a no no.

 

Recently I tried a relatively new place at Crown. It’s called The Brasserie and is next door to Number 8.

 

It has a stunning menu and what your read on paper they accurately transfer to you’re plate. I had one of the best fish soups I have ever eaten. A good, strong fish stock with crunchy croutons (obviously added at the last possible moment before  serving plus rouille and Gruyere cheese.

 

With a name like The Brasserie it is obviously going to have a huge French influence. Otherwise why would you go there?

 

Among the entrees were farmed rabbit rillettes with an artichoke salad.  And snails Provencale in a tomato fondue.

 

Among the fish mains Mrs. Nosebag ( have to replace Ms with Mrs now we are married)  chose the barramundi. Making it doubly appealing was  cooked and raw asparagus. Here they serve both green and white asparagus. Maybe it’s aesthetically pleasing but I love white asparagus.  Maybe it doesn’t make your urine smell as much. Why is that so?

 

There are scallops and Moreton Bay bugs and snapper for not unreasonable prices. Around $16 for an entrée size and $30 for a main.

 

Seven side orders from beans to mushrooms to French fries range between $4.50 and $6.50 an order.

 

If you want to go the heavy stuff they have lamb rack and rump, aged rib of beef, pan fried tenderloin and Burgundy beef plus  grilled duck breast and a lighter chicken fricassee.

 

Good stuff. I just hope they have a long lease.

 

March 22, 2006