THE STRAND
1 The Strand
Williamstown , Melbourne
Ph: 9397 7474
www.thestrandrestaurant.com.au

 

It is a combination that can be fraught with disaster when the Hungry Hinch virtually stops drinking – except for a weekly glass of a good red for a weekend lunch or dinner – and therefore can drive anywhere again without risk of being .05.

And, a disaster it almost was when it was decided to take the classic 1984 two-door Cadillac Biarritz for a spin and make a rare visit to Williamstown along with Mrs. Nosebag and a friend.

I had long wanted to visit a new version of one of my favourite Greek restaurants called Remvi. Some time back the HH reviewed the original Remvi in Toorak Road, Sth Yarra, just down from Chapel Street.

Their saganaki was fantastic and their chargrilled tiny lamb cutlets. We booked a table for a Sunday at Williamstown. The owner mentioned, en passant, that it was a great coincidence because that was his baby’s christening that day and I could see the offspring. I was more interested in the dips and the calamari but no matter.

We got there and peered in the window of the restaurant. It was decked out with pink table napkins and other colourful decorations and little bags of those sugary white coated almonds.  It looked like it was festooned for a full Greek christening celebration. It was.

No offence to our Greek-Australian brethren BUT a languid Sunday lunch, in my book, does not include a room full of ankle –biters and chubby, young whining boys in blue velvet suits.

We decided to pass and went looking for somewhere else. Anywhere else. And found it at The Strand. It’s called Upstairs at The Strand but we happily and comfortably ate downstairs. I, apparently, had driven the narrow streets of the waterside suburb like a bearded Mr. Magoo. Oblivious to the narrowly-avoided carnage in my wake.

The females were in peels of (nervous) laughter about my traffic indiscretions and  needed a drink.

Things started looking up when the wine list featured a Penfolds 407 for 45 dollars. A bottle of Scotchman’s Hill sauv blanc was, surprisingly, four dollars more expensive.

Perhaps still lamenting being deprived of a Greek meal I was pleased to see saganaki on the menu at The Strand. It was good, not too salty as some saganaki is and not spongy. But $17 I thought was a tad steep for what is really a pre-meal cheesy nibble.

With a view of the bay and an armada of yachts out on the water it was fitting that The Strand would have a big selection of seafood dishes. You could have half a southern rock lobster for $50 or things like steamed local mussels, John Dory, Atlantic salmon, local scallops, whole schnapper and crispy fried little sardines – yet again being passed off as ‘whitebait’.

I have been in a risotto mood lately at places like Cosi in South Yarra and The Dog’s Bar in St. Kilda and Zigolini’s and Lucio’s in Sydney. Although my current favourite is spaghettini -- with fish, clams, prawns, mussels, chilli and garlic -- at The Dish on St. Kilda Road.

This Sunday though I let the girls have the risotto. Lobster with white wine, spinach and herbs. Good texture, good sized serving and good taste – but at $39.50 each it ought to be.

I think I had better value with the spaghettini marinara. It was chock full of prawns, scallops, fish, clams and mussels with an olive oil sauce including garlic, chilli, olives and tomatoes. That was $31.50.

For dessert their cheese menu was pretty impressive. Especially an Italian gorgonzola, a ‘hardish’ cheddar from Lancashire and a creamy cheese with a fluffy white rind from ‘de Bourgnone’ (Bourgogne, surely?) in France.

The girls ordered a couple of those but I still had to force Mrs Nosebag’s fork away from mine: an individual passionfruit pavlova with a good crust and mounds of very fresh fruit.

Followed by coffee (ruby red herb tea for me) on the enclosed balcony overlooking the water. Would be a great summer lunch spot out there with the plastic wind and rain protectors wound up.

Even on a chilly day, with the wind coming in off the water, the seafood and the wine was enough to forget what we were missing at that Greek christening.

October 23, 2006