Vue
de Monde
Drummond St, Carlton, Vic
And
for this the last Sir Hinchalot of the year it is only fitting
that I found one of the best restaurants in Australia to dine
at.
Its
in Melbourne. Its in Carlton the home of restaurant
dining in this city and I am not the only person to think
the food at this place is brilliant and the owner-chef a whisked.
Gourmet Traveller magazine last week named the chef the best newcomer
in Australia. Put him up there alongside the Best Restaurant in
the country, The Flower Drum.
The
chef is Shannon Bennett -- a 26-year-old Broady boy who is going
to become as famous as that other Broadmeadows mover and shaker
Eddie McGuire.
The
restaurant is Vue De Monde in Drummond Street and it certainly
is a breathtaking view of the food world. This stuff is art work
on a plate. Inv fact one dish had an intricate sauce design that
I thought WAS part of the plate.
Ill
tell you how good it is. Victor Kiam once said that an electric
razor was so good that he bought the company. Well, I didnt
quite do that, but the dining experience at Vu De Monde is so
good that I went there twice in two days.
For
lunch on Friday and dinner on Saturday night. Now before I rave
too much I should warn that this place can be expensive. Doesnt
have to be. Especially if you go for the Gourmand Menu -- course
after course after course -- that can cost you nearly 100 dollars
per person. And if you let them choose the wines to compliment
each course then glasses of the best French champagne and French
and Australian whites and reds will set you back more than 100
dollars more.
But
you can go there for lunch and try two of their brilliant courses
for only 26 dollars and that includes a glass of wine.
But
lets get to the food. Try the first offering. A single fried
oyster in imported Japanese breadcrumbs with a sliver of abalone
and a few noodles.
The
ingredients are the best. Foie Gras from Strasbourg (probably
the chefs favourite ingredient). Truffles from Italy. Marron
from Western Australia, saltbush hogget, Partridge, peasant, duck,
goose, hare. Awesome food.
And the best examples of prime beef you will ever eat. Makes
prime sound like hamburger. These slender fillets have been
pampered for more than 500 days.
The
presentation is, as I said, artistry. You can see the young team
creating earnestly in the kitchen. But this is not cutesy
cuisine nouvelle.
Ill
give you an example:
I
had a terrine. To some people it would not sound appetising. It
was pickled and smoked lambs tongue with goose liver. And
it rested on a jelly made from chardonnay with hints of star anise
and cinnamon.
It
rated 210 out of 100.
There
were braised pigs trotters and twice-cooked duck and steamed
Macedon lamb.
And
if you are a serious foodie and I dined there several
theres a great game to play at Vue De Monde. A one-question
gastronomical quiz.
They
serve a digestif mid-meal. Not a sorbet. A small white cup of
almost clear liquid that looks like tea. Smell it. Taste it. Try
to identify it.
It
will smell familiar, my dinner partner, my manager Marina Paul,
who prides herself on her sense of smell said: I know it.
My Mum uses it a lot. Yep.
I
couldnt get it. I picked there was a touch of vinegar in
there and maybe chives and mint. But the elusive main liquid?
No way.
It
was clear, strained tomato juice. Like wine, tomato juice aint
red unless you maturate it with the skins. Tasted good too.
The
desserts I wont even start on except for a tiny banana
and chocolate mousse for starters.
A
small criticism but they welcomed it. The courses came too quickly.
But each dish is so labour intensive and the place was packed
so a request to slow down is greeted with relish.
Vue
de Monde. If you truly appreciate and enjoy fine food and understand
what goes into it and can afford it -- then this is a place
for you.
If
you think you do and want to learn. Then go there for a 25 dollars
lunch.
Vue
de Monde is Shannon Bennetts view of the world. He should
like what he sees.
November
25, 2002