ICEBERGS

1 NOTTS AVE
BONDI BEACH
SYDNEY
Ph. 02 9365 9099

When I first arrived in Australia forty years ago the biggest buzz was to go to Bondi Beach. I had never seen such a stretch of sand.

When the first shark alarm went off I thought somebody’s car alarm was stuck. Then there was the man with the fly-spray can full of mutton-bird oil to baste the beach beauties.

And the Perv Police who actually measured the size of buxom bathers’ bikini bottoms.

That was in summer. In winter one would expect Bondi to disappear from the headlines and any beach action. But we didn’t count on the Icebergs….. the mad winter swimmers who would dive into Antarctic waters every morning at the Clovelly end of the sandy arc.

The Bondi Icebergs. These old codgers were legends. Then their decrepit old club quarters made headlines because of asbestos and problems with the local council.

In December 2002 a new Iceberg loomed on the Sydney horizon and Bondi was transformed.

Icebergs Dining Room and Bar officially opened. It was powered by Maurice Terzini -- who conquered Melbourne with Caffe e Cucina in Prahran and then Sydney with Otto’s at Woolloomooloo.

They put together a kitchen team which was a bit like an iceberg – 90 per cent hidden.

At Icebergs at Bondi the team was led by Karen Martini from The Melbourne Wine Room and Robert Marchetti from The Latin in Melbourne.

They spent millions on this new place. Or, at least, the owners did, including the peripatetic John Singleton.

And they built and inherited a gem. Indubitably the hottest spot in Sydney.

It is certainly worth the cab fare from the city just for the view. Or a great martini or bourbon in the stylish bar.

It’s an exotic menu to match the view.

I went too heavy with the duck but think of roasted quail stuffed with chicken livers and rosemary.

Or charcoal grilled octopus with cucumber, lemon and olive oil.

In the best Mediterranean style they also serve fresh goat’s curd with salt dried olives and coal grilled bread. Yesss!!

There are also some spunky desserts like spicy poached figs with ricotta and a pistachio praline and pastry.

And an awesome one that I ate but I am quoting straight off the menu:

Affagoto, vanilla ice cream, espresso and liqueur.

Icebergs is a place that won’t be submerged for a long, long time.

October 11, 2003