MANTA
The Wharf
Woolloomooloo
Sydney

I dined at Otto’s on the “Loo’s” famous finger wharf recently. Ordered three oysters for starters. Sure they had some lumpfish roe eggs on them but they cost four dollars each. That makes them 48 dollars a dozen. I thought I was back in London!

The next day I went back to the finger wharf and lunched a couple of restaurants down at Manta. It used to be called Manta Ray’s. The new abbreviated name comes with new owners and a new chef.

It is much cheaper than Otto’s – especially the wine list – and has the same stunning views of Sydney’s skyline and Sydney Harbour.

From the moment we sat down I liked Manta’s mantra.

The new menu says:

 

“Good cooking involves a lot of work even before we start to cook. From salt to extra virgin olive oil, all the ingredients we use at Manta are painstakingly sourced. In season and in peak condition, from the very best producers and importers around Australia”.

 

At Manta they pride themselves on their seafood dishes. Bought daily, very early in the morning, from the Sydney Fish market auction floor.

 

“Once the day’s fish comes into the kitchen, they are carefully dry-filleted, without the use of water, which seriously affects texture and flavour.”

 

Interesting point. Most fish is washed within an inch of its life. I never wash steak because I believe it bleaches the taste but I have a Greek friend who would never serve any meat unless it has been thoroughly washed in cold water.

 

Manta thrives on fish. Two of my guests had roast Murray Cod with the crispy skin on served with “stone ground polenta” and buttered spinach. And they loved it.

 

They also serve lobster and mud crab live from the tank.  They are either grilled or steamed (I think grilled is best) with garlic, parsley and olive oil. Or with chilli, tomatoes and herbs.  Personally, I think that combination usually overpowers the subtlety of the lobster or the crab.

 

Manta also has grilled saltwater barramundi, Balmain bugs, and – what they call – a “ cacciucco” of fish and shellfish in an “aromatic tomato broth”.

 

Perhaps foolishly, I let my ex-wife, Jacki Weaver, order my lunch – mainly because for decades she has known what I like to eat.

 

She didn’t order me fish – despite that impressive menu. But the roast duck breast with baby beetroot and a touch of balsamic was a great Sunday lunch. If I had perused the menu properly I might have gone for the rabbit pie.

 

A vegetarian guest had, and enjoyed, braised wild mushrooms with grilled polenta and parmesan cheese.

 

We had started with a fascinating platter of “ nibbles”.  Anchovies. A rich duck pate and various breads – like toasted sourdough ciabatta with chickpea, olive and eggplant salsa.

 

Manta is good. Good food. Great view. Good wine. A perfect Sydney Sunday lunch.  

 

November 10, 2005